LARGE SNAKES
A really big snake will be either the Western Whip Snake Hierophis viridiflavus (upto 2 metres long and clearly marked with dark patches on a yellowish background) or the Aesculapian Snake Elaphe longissima, (again unto 2 metres, but a uniform brownish colour).
SMELLY SNAKES
All the other snakes you might meet share the endearing habit of covering you with a vile smelling secretion when they are alarmed. It comes from their anal gland and is very good at its job. The smell instantly conjures up the worst kind of sea-sickness and all interest in herpetology evaporates. It is also extremely difficult to wash off. This has only happened to me once, and that was a long time ago. I had a dog at the time, and although she relished the taste of horse manure and would roll ecstatically in anything vaguely farmyardy she avoided me like the plague. It smells very bad indeed!
These smaller, non-poisonous snakes with round pupils will be either Grass Snakes, or Smooth Snakes, and to make life difficult there are two species of each in S.W.France.
GRASS SNAKES
Any snake with a clear yellow collar will be the ‘true’ Grass Snake Natrix natrix. It is normally found near water and feeds largely on amphibians. If the snake is without a definite collar, but still marked with lots of yellow around the head, it will be the Viperine Snake Natrix maura. This one pretends to be a viper and will strike quite convincingly if you are daft enough to play with it. It is even more aquatic than the grass snake and often feeds on small fish.
SMOOTH SNAKES
These have round pupils, are not big and do not have any yellow marks around the head. Either the Smooth Snake Coronella austriaca or the Southern Smooth Snake Coronella girondica. The latter has a dark band across its nose and is said to be much more docile than the former which will definitely try to bite you. Both are also capable of doing smelly things like the grass snakes.
WARNING
When you do see snakes in France be very careful who you tell. In my experience the best way to turn a friendly French neighbour into a killer is to mention the word "serpent". He or she (probably he) will immediately grab something dangerous-looking and insist that you lead the way to the exact spot. Once there all reptiles, most plants, and in severe cases sections of stone wall, will be destroyed and you will undergo a long and very serious lecture about the dangers of the French countryside. You will be watched with suspicion for many days, and locals will queue up to tell you their horror stories. Much better in my opinion to keep quiet!
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